Creasing and folding machine for collars, cuffs, and the like.



v No. 856.695.

PATENTBD JUNE 11, 1907. H. GERHARDT. GRBASING AND FOLDING MACHINE FUR OOLLARS, GUPFS, AND THE LIKE.

APPLICATION FILED MAB.17. 1905.

Ilium,

on ff izry Gezfianii ATTORNEYS WITNESSES:

A No. 856,695. PATENTED JUNE 11, 1907 H. GERHARDT.

GREASING AND FOLDING MACHINE FOR GOLLARS, GUFFS, AND THE LIKE.

APPLIOATION FILED MAB..17. 1905.

INVENTOR ATTORNEYS rm: mmms parsks cm, wnsnmswn. 04 c.

4 SHEETSSHEET 2.

PATENTED JUNE 11, 1907.

H. GERHARDT. OREASING AND FOLDING MACHINE FOR GOLLARS, SUITS, AND THE LIKE.

APPLIOATION FILED 1613.17. 1905.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

02 w w 0 t 1 E I f :5 O m z L f z i5 1 w 0 Z 4 I L K}, 5 0 2 H3 r0 15K 5 H a H pr 6 H WITNESSES:

ATTOR 1m: "cums PETERS co., WASHINGTON, m c.

No. 856,695. PATENTED JUNE 11, 1907. H. GERHARDT. UREASING AND FOLDING MACHINE FOR DOLLARS, GUFFS; AND THE LIKE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR.17. 1905.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

1n: NORRIS PETERS co., wasnmc-ron, n. r

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HENRY GERI-IARDT, OF HAZLETON, PENNSYLVANIA.

CREASING AND FOLDING MACHINE FOR COLLARS, CUFFS, AND THE LIKE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented June 11, 1907.

Application filed March 17,1905. Serial No- 250,595-

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY GERIIARDT, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Hazleton, in the county of Luzerne and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and Improved Creasing and Folding Machine for Cuffs, Collars, and the Like, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

The invention relates to apparel apparatus, employed in the manufacture of cuffs, collars and like wearing apparel, and the object of the invention is to provide a new and improved creasing and folding machine, arranged to crease a piece of fabric on all sides, to form outer sewing flaps and to fold the same over onto the fabric-body.

The invention consists of novel features and parts and combinations of the same, as will be more fully described hereinafter and then pointed out in the claims.

A practical embodiment of the invention is represented in the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the views.

Figure 1 is a plan view of the improvement Fig. 2 is an inverted plan view of the same, parts of the main frame being shown in section; Fig. 3 is a transverse section of the same, on the line 3 3 of Fig. 1; Fig. 4 is a transverse section of the table, the discharging or lifting device and the mechanism for periodically operating the same; Fig. 5 is a plan view of the former and the mechanism for actuating the same; Fig. 6 is a longitudinal sectional elevation of the same, on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5, also showing the folding plates and the fabric material in position on the table; Fig. 7 is a similar view of the same, showing the several parts in position before turning over the flap; Fig. 8 is a like View of the same, showing the flap raised; Fig. 9 is a similar view of the same, showing the flap folded over the former; Fig. 10 is a like view of the same, showing the former withdrawn from the flap and the latter folded down upon the fabric-body by the folding plate; and Fig. 11 is a sectional side elevation of the mechanism for opening the former-parts.

In the manufacture of two or more ply cuffs, collars and the like, a fabric-piece cut to the desired shape is creased along the sides, to form flanges, which are turned inward onto the fabric-body, to form a double thickness on all sides of the piece, and two or more such pieces are then laid one on top of the other and sewed together along the doubled-up sides, so that four, six or more thicknesses of material constitute the sides of the article.

In order to produce the desired result expeditiously and without requiring skilled labor, use is made of the creasing and folding machine presently to be described in detail and more especially designed for use in the manufacture of cuffs.

On a suitably constructed table A is placed a cut piece B of fabridmateriaI, along the l four sides of which creases are produced (see Fig. 8), to form flaps B, to be turned over in an inward direction (see Fig. 9), and finally pressed down into firm contact with the fabric-body, as illustrated in Fig. 10. In order to accomplish the desired result use is made of a four-part rectangular former C, mounted to swing u and down and a set of folding plates 1), and D of which the folding plates D and D are mounted to move obiquely toward and from the former C and the folding plate D is arranged to move transversely toward and from the former C. The

fabric B is placed in position over the table A at the time the former is up (see dottedlines Fig. 3), and the folding plates D, D, D are in an outermost position (see Fig. 7), so that the edges of the fabric overlie the folding plates 1), D and D a distance corresponding to the flaps B to be formed, and when the former C is now caused to swing'downward (see Fig. 8), then the fabric-body is pressed down u on the table A and the portions overlying 't 1e folding plates D, D and D are caused to swing up into a vertical position, to form the flaps B on the four sides of the fabric-body. The folding plates D, D and D are now moved inward toward the former C,

to bend the flaps B over the former (see Fig.

9), and then the parts or sections of the former are drawn out from under the flaps B (see Fig. 10), and then the folding plates D,

D and D are caused to press the flaps B firmly down upon the upper face of the fabric B, as plainly illustrated in Fig. 10.

The parts of the former C are movably held on the under side of a carrier E, bolted or otherwise secured to the fork E of a lever E fulcrumed at E on the table A and provided with a transversely-extending arm E, adapted to be engaged by the peripheral face of a cam secured to a cam-shaft F extending longitudinally and journaled in suitable bearings carried on the under side of the table A (see Figs. 2 and'3). On the cam-shaft F is secured a bevel gear-wheel F in mesh with a bevel gear-wheel G secured on a transverse shaft G, likewise journaled in suitable bearings attached to the under side of the table A, and on the said shaft G is secured a bevel gear-wheel G in mesh with a bevel gear-wheel F 2 secured to a second cam-shaft F also journaled in suitable bearings-attached to the under side of the table A, as plainly indicated in Figs. 2 and 3. On the rear end of the shaft G is secured a worm-wheel G in mesh with a worm- G secured or formed on the main driving shaft H journaled on the table and carrying a fast pullev H and a loose pulley H adapted to be engaged by a belt H connected with other suitable machinery, for imparting a rotary motion to the shaft H at the time the belt H is in engagement with the fast pulley H. The belt H is automatically shifted from the fast pulley H to the loose pulley H at each complete operation of the machine, to temporarily stop the same, and the belt H is returned manually from the loose pulley H to the fast pulley H, for starting the machine, and after the fabric has been placed in position by the operator, as above mentioned.

In order to shift the belt H as described, the following device is provided: The belt H is engaged by the fork I of a belt-shifter, and the said fork is held on a longitudinal shifter-rod I, pressed on by a spring 1 to normally hold the belt H in engagement with the loose pulley H The shifterrod I is connected with one end of a rope I (see Fig. a), extending over a pulley l journaled on the table A, and the said rope I is connected with a treadle (not shown), under the control of the operator, so that when the latter presses the treadle the rod 1 is moved outwardly, to cause the fork I to shift the belt H from the loose pulley H onto the fast pulley H, to start the mach ne and to put the spring I under tension. The inner end of the rod 1 engages a cam I having a notch I on the cam-shaft F, so that when the latter makes one revolution the notch 1 allows the rod 1 to be shifted from the left to the right by the action of the spring 1 to move the belt H from the fast pulley H onto the loose pulley H to stop the machine.

It is understood that when the main shaft H is rotated the worm G imparts a rotary motion to the worm-wheel G to turn the shaft G which, by the sets of bevel gearwheels G, F and G F causes the camshafts F and F to rotate in unison. hen the shafts H, G, F and F are at a standstill for the time being, then the cam E holds the arm or lever E in a rearwardly tip ed or raised position, as indicated in dotted ines in Fig. 3, so that the former C is raised, to allow removal of the previously finished article and the insertion of a new piece of goods to be treated as above described. As soon as the main driving shaft H, however, is rotated, and after the piece has been inserted, then the cam E allows the lever E to swing back to its active forward position, that is, to bring the former 0 down onto the piece B, to hold the same down on the table during the subsequent operation.

The four parts C, C 0 and O constitut ing the former C are in the form of thin plates of rectangular shape, and the parts C and C are each provided with upwardly-extending pins C extending through diagonal slots E formed in the carrier E (see Fig. 5), and the upper ends of the pins C for the parts C, C extend through diagonal slots J formed in a block J mounted to slide longitudinally on top of the carrier E, the slots J standing at angles to the corresponding slots E. The parts 0 and C of the former are similarly provided with upwardly-extending pins C, extending through slots E in the carrier E and through slots J formed in a block J similar to the block J andslidable longitudinally on the top of the carrier E. The blocks J and J are connected by links J and J with an arm J 6 extending transversely and attached to the lower end of a rock-shaft J mounted to turn in the forward end of the arm or lever E as plainly indicated in Fig. 3. The upper end of the shaft J is provided with a handwheel J under the control of the operator, to allow the latter to turn the shaft J and conse quently the arm J to slide the blocks J and J 3 toward or from each other, by the action of the said arm J 6 and the links J 4 and J 5 connecting the arm with the blocks J and J As shown in Fig. 5, the pivotal connections of the links J 4 and J with the arm J 6 are on opposite sides of the shaft J so that the swinging motion given tothe arm J 6 causes the blocks J and J 3 to move simultaneously toward or from each other. l/Vhen the blocks J and J are moved toward each other, then the former-parts C, C", C and C are caused to move inwardly in diagonal directions, to withdraw the formerparts from under the flaps B (see Fig. 10), and when the blocks J and J move outwardly, then the former-parts C, C C and C are caused to move outwardly in diagonal directions, to bring the outer edges thereof in close proximity to the inner edges of the folding plates D, D and D It is understood that the action of the parts 0, (1 ,0 and C is owing to the pins C and C engaging the corresponding slots E", J and E J 2 formed in the carrier E and the blocks J and J 3 respectively, and as the said slots in the carrier and blocks are at angles one to the other, it is evident that the former-parts 0, C C and C travel simultaneously inwardly or outwardly, but always in diagonal directions.

The arm J 6 is caused to swing automat- I vided with depending arms N, N and N reically at the proper time, and for this purpose the following device is provided: The rear end of the arm J 6 is pulled on by a spring J 9 carried by a bracket E held on the arm (see Fi 1), it being understood that the tension of the spring J 9 normally holds the former-parts C, C C and C in an outer or open position. A stop J on the arm E limits the swinging motion of the arm J 6 (see Figs. 1 and 3). In order to swing the arm J", to move the former-parts into a closed position a lever K is provided, fulcrumed on the under side of the table A and engaging the rear end of the arm J, and this lever K is pivotally connected with a rod having a cross-head K engaged by a cam K secured on the transverse shaft G, so that when the machine is in operation the cam K causes the cross-head K and its rod K to travel in a longitudinal direction, whereby a swinging motion is given to the lever K and the latter, by engaging the rear end of the arm J, causes the latter to swing, to move the former-parts C, 0 C and C inward into a closed position, to withdraw the formerparts from under the flaps B, as previously mentioned. IVhen this has taken place the cam E acting on the arm E causes the arm E to swing upwardly and rearwardly, and in doing so the arm J is carried along and consequently the rear end of the arm J is finally moved out of engagement with the lever K. As soon as this takes place the spring J 9 returns the arm J 6 to its normal position against the stop J, and in doing so the former-parts C, C C and C are caused to move back into an open normal position. When the machine is started the cam K causes a return movement of the lever K, so that when the arm swings downward, then the lever K is in the proper position to again engage the arm J, for acting on the same (lining the following operation, as above described.

In order to impart the desired sliding motion to the folding plates D, D and D the following device is provided: The folding plates D and D are L-shaped and are arranged one alongside the other, to form three sides of a rectangle, the fourth side of which is formed by the folding plate D as will be readily understood by reference to Fig. 1. The folding plates D and D are provided with diagonal slots D and D, of which the slots D are engaged by bolts L mounted to slide vertically in the table A, and the slots D are engaged by guide-pins L secured to the table A. The folding plate D is provided with transversely-extending elongated slots D engaged by bolts L similar to the bolts L, and the said plate D is also provided with a transversely elongated slot D, engaged by a guidein L secured to the table A. The folding p ates D, D and D are prospectively, extending through suitable openings or slots in the table A, and the lower ends of the said arms N, N and N are in engagement with the peripheral faces of cams N, N 4 and N 5 respectively, of which the cams N and N are secured on the cam-shaft F (see Fig. 2), and the cam N is secured on the camshaft F The arms N, N and N are pressed by suitable springs N to return or move the folding plates outward into an open position and to hold the same arms in contact with the peripheral faces of the cams N N and N \Vhen the machine is in operation, then the rotation of the cam-shafts F and F causes the cams N, N and N to act on the arms N, N and N so as to move the folding plates D, D and D at the proper time inwardly toward each other, to cause the folding plates to press the flaps B down upon the former C (see Fig. 9), it being understood that the inner edges of the said folding lates are slightly rounded off, to allow the olding plates to turn the flaps B over during their inward movement and to press on top of the said flaps B, as will be readily understood by reference to Figs. 8 and 9.

In addition to the inward closing movement the folding plates D, D and D have an upward movement, to allow the plates to pass over the fla s B while bending the same down onto tie former C, and for this purpose the folding plates are mounted to slide up and down on their bolts L and L as well as on the pins L and L. The bolts L and L are free to slide up and down in bearings in the table A and are provided at both their upper and lower ends with heads, of which the upper heads limit the upward sliding movement of the folding plates while the lower heads are adapted to be engaged by an arm 0, hung on springs 0 connected with the under side of the table A. The arm 0 is engaged at the upper side by transverselyextending levers O and O fulcrumed on the under side of the table A and extending in opposite directions, the free ends of the said levers being provided with friction rollers O" and O in engagement with the peripheral faces of cams O and O secured on the camshafts F and F (see Figs. 2 and 3). Normally the arm 0 is held in an uppermost position by its springs 0, so that the guide bolts L and L allow the folding plates D, D and D to rise when moved inwardly by the action of the cams N, N and Y on the arms N, N and N as previously described, and when the said folding plates have reached an innermost position and the former- )arts 0, C C and 0 have been withdrawn from under the flaps B, then the cams and 0 act on the friction-rollers O and of the lovers 0 and O to cause the latter to press the arm 0 downward, so that the said arm engages the lower heads of the bolts L and L to force the same downward and thereby cause ths upper heads of the said bolts to firmly prese onto the folding plates D, D and D for the latter to firmly press the flaps B onto the top face of the fabric B (see Fig. 10). When this has been done the cams O and O release the pressure on the arms 0 and O to allow the springs O to raise the arm 0 to its former position, thus releasing the bolts L and L and consequently the latters pressure on the folding plates D, D and D to permit convenient outward or return movement of the folding plates by the action of the springs N pressing the arms N, N and N the corresponding cams N bl and N being then in a proper position to allow such movement.

The upper faces of the folding plates D, D are provided at the inner corners with L- shaped stops D to allow the operator to conveniently place the fabric B in position, as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 1. The outward movement of the folding plates D, D and D is limited by suitable stops P, preferably in the shape of disks made of leather or like material and eccentrically mounted on pins P secured to the top of the table A. By turning the eccentrically-mounted disks the return movement of the folding plates D, D and D can be regulated to any desired degree, so as to hold the folding plates in the proper position for the size of the fabric under treatment at the time.

After the flaps B have been bent over, as described, and the folding plates D, D and D have moved back into their outermost positi on at the time the former C is raised, then the fabric B is lifted off the table A, and for this purpose a lifting plate Q is provided (see Figs. 3 and 4), fitted in a recess A formed on the top of the table, within the rectangular space inclosed by the folding plates D, D and D The lifting plate Q is provided with a downwardly-extending stem Q mounted to slide vertically in the table A, and on the lower end of the stem Q is arranged a crosshead Q mounted to slide vertically in guideways A forming part of the table A. The cross-head Q is engaged by the inner end of a lever Q 'fulcrumed on a bracket A carried by the table, and the outer end of this lever is adapted to be engaged by a cam Q secured on the shaft G, so that when the machine is in motion and the shaft G is rotated, as pre viously described, then the cam Q acts on the lever Q at the proper time, to impart an upward sliding movement to the lifting plate Q, to lift the fabric off the table A (see dotted lines, Fig. 4). When the cam Q passes the outer end of, the lever Q then the lifting plate Q immediately drops back into the recess A by its own weight and that ofthe parts connected with it, that is, the crosshead Q and the lever Q While the lifting plate Q is in an uppermost position and supports the fabric above the table, then a removing device engages the fabric and carries the same to one side of the machine, and this removing device is referably in the form of a pair of jaws R and R, of which the jaw R (see Figs. 1 and 3) has a hub R on which the other jaw R is fulcrumed. A stop-link R is pivo'tally con nected with the movable jaw R and extends through an opening in the fixed jaw R, the head of the link resting on top of the fixed jaw R, as plainly indicated in the drawings. By the arrangement described, the jaw R can drop only a suflicient distance to space the free ends of the jaws apart for the aws to conveniently engage the fabric, the link R permitting the closing of the jaw R, that is, an upward swinging motion toward the fixed aw R, to clamp the fabric between the jaws.

The pair of jaws have a swinging movement, and for thispurpose the hub R is secured on the upper end of a shaft R, journaled in suitable bearings on the table A, and on the lower end of this shaft R is secured a bevel gear-wheel R in mesh with a bevel gear-wheel R secured on the cam-shaft F Then the machine is in operation and the shaft F is rotated, then the bevel gearwheels R, R impart a rotary motion to the shaft R", so that the pair of jaws is swung around in a circle. During this swinging movement of the pair of jaws the lower jaw R moves in engagement with a segmental cam R arranged on the top of the table A, so as to close the jaw R at the time the jaws R and R have the fabric between them, and the fabric is held in a raised position by the lifting plate Q. When the jaw R closes, the fabric is clamped between the jaws, and as the jaws keep on swinging around, it is evident that the fabric is carried along by the jaws, and when the fabric reaches one side of the table then the cam R allows the aws R to open, so that the fabric drops out from between the jaws into a suitable receptacle S held on one side of the table A.

The operation is as follows: When the machine is at a standstill then the former C is in a raised position and the folding plates D, D and D are in an open or outward position, to allow the operator to conveniently place the piece of fabric B in position over the folding plates D, D and D as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 1, and when this has been done the operator presses the treadle so as to shift the belt H from the loose pulley H to the fast pulley H, so that a rotary motion is given to the several shafts H, G, F and F The cam E now allows the arm E to swing downward, so that the former O, with the former-parts 0, C C and C in an open position passes on top of the fabric and presses the same down onto the table A, as plainly indicated in Fig. 8, whereby the flaps B are formed and caused to stand in a vertical position. The cams N N and N on the shafts F and F now act on the corresponding arms N, N" and N so as to move the folding plates D, D and D inward or into a closed position, to cause the folding plates to bend the flaps B over onto the former-parts C, 0 C and C, it being understood that at this time the folding plates D, D and D are free to rise, owing to the raised position of the spring-supported arm 0 (see Fig. 9). WVhen the flaps B have been bent over onto the former-parts 0, C C and 0 then the latter are moved inward or into a closed position by the action of the lever K on the arm J, as previously explained, to cause the former-parts C, C C and C to move out from under the flaps B. l/Vhen this has been done the former C begins its upward swinging movement, thus moving out of engagement with the fabric B. During the upward movement of the former O the arm J moves out of engagement with the lever K, so that the spring J 9 returns the arm J, thus forcing the former-parts C, C, C and C to move outwardly, back into an open position. As soon as the former-parts are withdrawn from under the flaps B, the cams O and 0 act on the arms 0 and O to force the arm 0 downward, and during this downward move- .ment of the arm 0 the latter engages the heads on the lower ends of the rods L and L to force the latter downward and thus cause the folding lates D, D and D to press the flaps B firm y down onto the fabric. When this has been done the cams O and 0 release the arms 0 and O to allow the springs O to draw the arm 0 back into an upward position, with a view to release the outward pressure on the folding plates D, D and D The cams N N and Y are now in a position to allow the springs N 6 to push the arms N, N and )1 back into an outermost position, thereby moving the folding plates D, D and D back into an open position. WVhen this has been done, the cam Q acts on the lever Q so that the lifting plate Q lifts the fabric off the table, and at this time the jaws R and R move in engagement with the fabric and the jaw R is closed by the action of the cam R to clamp the fabric between the two jaws R and R. As the latter keep on swinging the fabric is carried along, and finally the jaw R is allowed to open by the action of the cam R, to permit the fabric to drop into the receptacle S. As soon as this takes place the shifting rod I is opposite an opening I in the cam I (see Figs. 2 and 4), so that the spring 1 draws the shifting rod 1 inward into the said opening I, thus shifting the belt H from the fast pulley H to the loose pulley H, to bring the machine to a standstill. The several parts are now again in the posi tion for repeating the above-described operation; that is, the operator places another piece of fabric onto the folding plates D, D and D then presses the treadle, to again shift the 'belt H from the loose pulley to the fast pulley, the operator holding the foot on the treadle sufficiently long for the opening I of the cam I to pass the inner end of the shifting red I. The operator can then remove the foot from the treadle.

It is understood that for treating pieces B of different shapes it is necessary to use different shaped former-parts and folding plates, but the operation thereof is the same as above described, so that further description thereof is not deemed necessary.

Although I have shown but one piece of fabric to be treated at a time, it is evident that two or more superimposed pieces may be simultaneously treated in the machine, the flaps B of the several pieces then overlying each other when the operation is completed, but such pieces can be readily disengaged one from the other by the operator, for sewing two or more pieces together, as above described.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

1. A creasing and folding machine provided with a former made in separate parts, a carrier having oblique slots in which the former-parts are mounted to slide toward and from each other, a lever mounted to rock and carrying the said carrier, a rock-shaft journaled in a part of the said lever, means for connecting the said rock-shaft with the said former-parts, to slide the same obliquely toward and from each other, a spring connected with the said rockshaft, for turning the latter in one direction, and a mechanism connected with the said rock-shaft, for turning it in the opposite direction against the tension of the said spring, the said mechanism comprising an arm on the rock-shaft, a lever for imparting motion to the said arm and a revoluble cam actin on the said lever.

2. A creasing and folding machine provided with a table, folding plates having slots, bolts slidable in the said table and extending through the said slots, a spring frame connected with the said bolts, levers bearing on the said .frame, cams acting on the said levers, to place the latter under tension, arms secured to the said folding plates, revoluble cams engaging the said arms, to impart motion to the same in one direction, and springs pressing the said arms, to return the folding plates into an outermost open position.

3. A creasing and folding machine provided with a table, means for forming flaps and folding the same onto the fabric-body resting on the table, means for automatically raising the fabric-body ofl the table, a pair of clamping aws mounted to revolve and adapted to engage the raised fabric, and means for closing the said aws, to clamp the raised fabrlc and carry it to one slde.

4. A creasing and folding machine pro- In testimony whereof I have signed my I5 5 vided with a table, means for forming flaps name to this specification in the presence of fabric and carry it to one side, and means and folding the same onto the fabric-body 1 two subscribing witnesses.

for opening the jaws for the latter to drop thefabric.

resting on the table, means for automatically 7 raising the fabric-body off the table, a pair HENRY GERHARDT' of clamping jaws mounted to revolve and WVitnesses: 10 adapted to engage the raised fabric, means B. REED,

for closing the said jaws, to clamp the raised i HARRY CURTIs. 

